Clients & Partners stories | 3DESIGN https://3design.com 3DESIGN: 3D Jewelry Software solutions - Design, Create, Produce Professional jewelry Tue, 22 Mar 2022 09:39:30 +0000 en-GB hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.2.6 https://3design.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/cropped-3DESIGN-Flavicon-32x32.png Clients & Partners stories | 3DESIGN https://3design.com 32 32 Bijoux Concept: The story of a brilliant alliance https://3design.com/en/bijoux-concept-story-brilliant-alliance/ Mon, 09 Sep 2019 09:59:07 +0000 http://3design.com/?p=1718

Bijoux Concept: The story of a brilliant alliance

Excellence in jewellery design and mastery of 3D technologies, the story of the Bijoux Concept atelier

A jewellery workshop was the childhood dream of Susanne, CEO, and THE jewellery side of the duo behind Bijoux Concept. François, for you, it is technical mastery, you are the Artistic Director.

Together, you represent the two faces of the company “Bijoux Concept”.

That dream became a reality in 1997, in the heart of the quiet town of Neuchâtel in Switzerland, a town imbued with the traditions and know-how of the luxury sector. As the years passed, the workshop existed and evolved in a context of Baroque contemporary lines amidst a mix of traditional tools and 3D technologies.

It was against this backdrop that Susanne and François conceived of their “Noir-à-porter” jewellery line in 2008.

Bijoux Concept is the fruit of this mix of complementary talents and experiences.

Today, the atelier’s output is known across Switzerland for its excellence and creativity, among a private clientele (via the boutique) as well as numerous jewellery design workshops.

“Experience is like a lantern that casts light behind one,” one Afghan proverb tells us. So let us go back to the past experience that each one of you brings to the enterprise. Can you remind us what you early professional training was?

Suzanne

Ever since I was a child, I have always been attracted by drawing and manual work. Being a fan of jewels and precious stones, I trained in jewellery-making at Chaux-de-Fonds, in a watchmaking workshop. Sawing, filing, beating, drawing… for me, they represent the freedom of shapes…

François:
My initial training was in mechanics and then technical drawing. My initial occupation was as a mechanical engineer working on tool machinery in the canton of Neuchâtel, the stronghold of watchmaking since the 70s.

You were one of the trailblazers in Switzerland in the move towards 3D technologies, and in particular a 3D software specially developed for jewellery design. Can you explain the reasons for that, and the context at the time?

François:

Having been keen on drawing since childhood, I was really enthusiastic about the arrival of 3D tools. A whole world opened up to me, the desire to create shapes virtually and see them in three dimensions on the screen. At the same time, the machine industry and the watchmaking industry was also embracing this technology for manufacturing watches. both Susanne and I were more inclined towards designing jewellery pieces in 3D. At the time, my tools were intended for mechanical work, it was quite rigid. We were looking for a more creative and evolutive solution. That’s when we came across 3DESIGN.

Susanne:
Contrary to what a lot of people think, jewellery-making is a highly technical trade, and “joaillerie” – the haute couture of jewellery-making – even more so. To secure a stone in its setting, you have to know the material and respect the dimensions…
Today, knowing your trade plus being in control of the precision of the 3D tool… is to have chance on your side! At Bijoux Concept, we play the card of complementarity with François.

Before, I used to design projects in one single piece by hand, in wax or brass (a time-consuming task), which always carried the risk of making a mistake and having to start again. Now, some elements are made by hand, others are executed in 3D, depending on their complexity and shape. First, 3D has offered me the convenience of previewing the finished jewellery item, as well as speed and precision in making the prototype or the piece itself. One of the great advantages for me has been being able to break it down into several parts and then put everything together at the end. I have been able to do more with pieces than I would have done by hand. Finally, 3D is ideal for presenting the end-customer with pictures and even a resin prototype of their future jewellery item. Customers are blown away by it! And that helps us to get a project validated.

To my mind, 3D does not replace the artisan, but supplements him or her. The final stroke of finesse by the master craftsman will always be necessary, in fact.

Even then, towards the end of the 90s, a number of 3D solutions were already available on the market, including free 3D programmes, downloadable online. Yet you chose 3DESIGN, a paid-for solution. Why?

François:

3DESIGN is the only parametric design software, ideal for applying any change at every design stage, unlike the Rhinoceros programme!
Also, at the time it was the only jewellery-orientated programme, and on MAC too!
As a mechanical engineer, I used to work on AutoCAD and Inventor. For jewellery design, I wanted that parameter-based aspect of mechanical design software, plus the freedom of shapes to construct, instinct, creativity. Of course, Rhino was virtually free but I wanted a professional solution. 3DESIGN met my needs in terms of budget and use. I was satisfied.
The Bijoux Concept Boutique in Neuchâtel

Could you describe an example of jewellery design that illustrates your work, your tools?

Here, for example, are the stages of development of one of our most recent projects: the ring in the ROSE line.

3D ring design rose - Bijoux Concept

Initial step: Hand-drawing of the rose, in plan view. This drawing was then integrated into 3DESIGN. It is a flat view; so next we have to create the volume.

Step 6- Casting of the parts individually (5 different objects)
Step 7- Work on the workbench: cleaning, adjusting, pre-polishing, stone setting, assembling, final polishing etc.

 

 

 

Over more than 12 years, you have seen your software evolve. In your experience, what would you say were the main advantage of 3DESIGN?

François

  • Number one, parametrics: it allows the automatic recalculation of all your operations after a modification.
  • Number two: the stone setting. Very powerful; let’s remember that although metal is important for the jewellery-maker, the stones are even more so.
  • 3DESIGN is more than a design software programme; it is software for jewellery-making and fine jewellery design

Do you have a wishlist for future versions of 3DESIGN?

François

After 12 years of practice, I can say in all modesty that I have mastered every function, even the most advanced, and I would like to move on to the “development” stage, that is to say, be able to set all the parameters myself.
The intuitive and automatic functions helped me to get started at the beginning. Today, I no longer use the “stone
tool”, the “signet tool” or the “sovereign function”; the software enables me to design everything myself. And I’d like to be able to go further with possibilities for manual parameter setting!

Do you have a tip for new users of 3DESIGN?

François

My advice to people starting off with 3DESIGN would be to automatically do the training. You don’t buy a car without passing your driving test!
A fine example of the 3Design software in use. We are proud and delighted to have been able to contribute to the development and creativity of their users. We thank Susanne and François for their time and their spontaneity.

This interview was given on Monday 9 September 2019, in the lounge of the Hôtel Métropole in Lyon (France).
Interview conducted by Mrs Emilie Balsamo, Team 3DESIGN, Gravotech Group, with Mrs Susanne Dändliker and Mr François Righi – Bijoux Concept – www.bijoux-concept.com (Neuchâtel, Switzerland).

Discover Bijoux Concept

Here!

]]> Splendor: a 3D Jewelry love story https://3design.com/en/splendor-3d-jewelry-love-story/ Tue, 19 Feb 2019 10:17:24 +0000 http://3design.com/?p=48963

Splendor: a 3D Jewelry love story

Each of you have a special love story with jewellery.
This one is incredible because it mixes the love of a couple with the love of Jewellery. Flirting with the boundaries of the possible, braving the difficulties of the trade together, this couple of jewellers explored new creative territories. Daniel Nagy and Orsolya Ráski Nagy adopted 3D from its earliest days and made it a signature that has enabled them to win the most prestigious international competitions. We have been accompanying them for 16 years now, and we are happy to make you meet them:

 

Interview of Daniel Nagy – Splendor

3Design: Start from the beginning, what is you background in Jewelry?

Daniel Nagy – Splendor

We, Orsolya Ráski Nagy and Daniel Nagy, are personal jewellery designers and goldsmiths, winners of numerous awards. Together we founded Splendor – Jewellery where we create individual, personalized and custom made hand-crafted, one-off jewellery pieces that are works of art.
We create jewellery with great passion, seeking new challenges and treading novel paths along the way. When we create a piece we capture a feeling or an idea and our jewellery becomes unreproducible much like a painting or piece of sculpture.
The focus of our exclusive services is on our client, to whom we offer our full attention and discretion. Our story telling jewellery pieces will speak to future generations about the personality of their owners.
The quality of our work is outstanding, even by international standards, and our 56 international awards are proof of this. Our hands and imagination are guided by our search for challenges, freedom of creativity and our passion for creating high quality jewellery.

We met in the Jewellery School, where we fell in love in 1997.

We didn’t enjoy either professional or financial heritage by our parents. This is why after we accepted a work opportunity together in a little village first, then we tried the mass production as employees of a big company, soon we realized that we need creative work. We became unemployed, and we tried to find applications which might help us to start our own life wire.
First we gained a small amount of loan, which helped us to buy some very basic tools in our own workshop, but we still didn’t have precious metal, stones, pearls, etc., experience, and equipment.

 

“We had elementary difficulties in this period,
like food to eat, money to pay the bills.”

We were very young in our early 20s, we loved each-other, so we were not unsatisfied. We worked hard, hoped the bests, and enjoyed our own life together. We got married in the year 2000.
Then we won an international application, which founded by Charles, Prince of Walles (The most promising young company of the year), and our first jewellery award in the same year.
Customers started finding us, and we turned our company to be a working system. We paid the bills all, and we employed our first workers, and developed our company. We continued taking part in Jewellery design awards with success, and we had more and more orders, materials, employees, experience, and more.
Around this time we were preparing the Tahitian Pearl Trophy again. We started working on an operational Jewellery finished cellphone, which were a huge challenge. We worked on it all the time, making nights to days and sacrificing weekends too for four long months. It is difficult to imagine, but because we had no family yet, we spent our nights and weekends in the workshop with four of us.

In 2003, this was the time period, when we started searching for a Jewellery CAD design solution, and CNC machine software. As I remember, we were one of the first customers of 3Design. The software was very young, and we were also beginners of anything like computer aided design, or cnc machine operation. We collected a lot of experience and knowledge in this time.
Finally we won several awards in this year with our cellphone and some more creations, and we felt, something begun.

3Design: What kind of design do you usually make?

Daniel Nagy – Splendor
The organic shapes that are characteristic of our designs are inspired by the shapes and energies present in nature. We want our pieces to embody beauty, comfort and positive thinking. This kind of form is close to the roots of people’s inherent concept of beauty, so our creations do not strive to follow contemporary fashion trends but rather radiate ageless beauty, embodying timeless aesthetics.

 

“We perceive and think in all dimensions of space
that is unique characteristic of us.”

The shape of our pieces reflect this. Our creations show a different face from each angle and this method could only be crafted by handmade techniques. This is why these creations can not be reproduced or duplicated by mass production.
Our designs are rooted in our own style and aesthetic coupled with the needs and dreams of our clients. They are not born out of the combination of existing shapes but through the creation of new ones. In our world jewellery is not a frame encompassing a stone but a personalized, well designed work of art that is characteristic of its wearer.
Besides aesthetics, the other most important aspects that guide our designs are comfort and durability. We at Splendor-Jewellery craft jewellery of the highest quality that will become cherished heirlooms for generations to come.

3Design: Is the design process revolutionized with 3D software?

Daniel Nagy – Splendor
Yes, definitely. Honestly it took so long time. We fell in love with the world of 3d in the first moment, but as jewellers, we tried to draw as we are working by hand. We had to learn a new way of thinking. We took part a course in Lyon at 3Design HQ led by David Lehmann, and we slowly turned to be skilled enough to use the software in our everyday life.
But the breakthrough point was the announcement of 3shaper. Our design did not fit for 3design well. It was extremely difficult to draw anything what we sketched by hand in 3d before 3shaper.
But since we have the 3Shaper function, a new world opened.
Our style got wings, and now we feel that we can reach higher and higher level every day.

The complete process of “Flirt” creation.

3Design: What is the reaction of customers when they see their jewelry rendering?

Daniel Nagy – Splendor
3d animation is a “finishing stroke”. Even they belive in us and the rough hand sketches, when they get the shinig and sparkling Jewellery design, turning around their display, they usually shocked by them, and cannot say anything else, just YES, definitely. I have no words, how they usually enthuse about the result.

3Design: We have been glad to see in your video that you are used to work with both our 2D and 3D software TypeEdit and 3Design, thank you for your confidence. How do you use them and for what purpose?

Daniel Nagy – Splendor
When we bought them both, we used TypeEdit most. We used it cleaning our rough hand sketches, and milling the contours of the designed pieces in wax blocks, to prepare them for hand carving, sculpting. We realized that we can elevate our sketches to a much higher level from many aspects, like: overall harmony, measurable dimensions, smoothness of lines, spaces among them, and many more. We still love this advantage, and after almost 20 years of experience, we are sure that it remains one of the most important step of our creation process. Sketching and Type3 work are specialties of Orsi.

3design and 3shaper are specialties of Dani. The bright, cleaned-out Type3 sketch turns to be the aid of 3shaper drawing to follow.

 

“Very important:
Without a well thought-out shape and functionality, a sophisticated beautiful hand drawn design, Dani wouldn’t be able to make the 3d model that well.”

Thinking in 3d is difficult. Sometimes it used to take days to understand, how a shape would look like from different sides, before we would have the opportunity to turn it around, and refine it. We made some unexpectedly discordant shapes, when we had no CAD software. Now we are able to turn it slowly around, following a certain line or curve, listening their surface and direction, We can find little humps, little imperfectnesses, strange shapes to fix, and it makes the final result much-much better.

Another wonderful feature is measurement, and control of thicknesses. We always measure the ready pieces around, mm by mm to spot too thin or too thick walls. Virtual world can fool us to date. Without this tool, we would create failed objects all the time.

Once we are ready, we usually print our Jewellery pieces by 3d printer. Poor CNC machine is just standing still for years. Since 3d printing turned to be affordable, even cheap, it give us the great feeling of peace of mind, and we can keep all the important features of the design, like overall size, harmony, weight, sophisticated curves, and many more.
The printed model turn to be then, either a sample to follow by hand work, or a shape to cast.

3Design: How long did it take from the beginning to the end to do this project (creation)? And how much time did you spend on our software for this project?

Daniel Nagy – Splendor
We are specialized for bespoke, personalized Jewellery design and creation. The time period, when we are trying to imagine a new, never seen shape takes the longest time. From one night, it could takes up to a half a year. It depends of complexity of the piece(s) and the customer.
Type 3 work is quick. It is matter of hours max.
3design is an interesting question. My first 3shaper created object, which I also like to date took 16 hours first. Now, I would be able to draw something like that in 2 hours. The overall shape we can create very quickly. Thickness control and shape refinement, little details are time consuming. It often takes equal time like the basic shape creation.
We usually use uncommon materials, like rare metal alloys, stone rarities and fancy shapes, so the physical creation process is usually 1-3 months.

 

3Design: How long does it take in training & experience to create a design like the one in the video with 3Design software?

Daniel Nagy – Splendor
We are using these softwares for about 16 years.

At the beginning, 3design was also simple, and full of bugs. We didn’t have the knowledge to understand some very basics to avoid problems, which interrupted our experiments all the time.

So at the beginnings, we used it so seldom for years. Later, we tried to use it more, especially after the course in Lyon.

But the real breakthrough point was 3Shaper, which is simple, but wonderful. Especially, because it perfectly match to our designs. So we needed months only, from the first steps to use it every day. Now, we are experienced, but we discover new possibilities, sometimes new functions too, we have never used before.

 

 

3Design: Was 3Shaper a key element for the realization of this jewel? Why?

Daniel Nagy – Splendor
I think most of our designs uses 3shaper as a key element, except the simpliest wedding bands and traditional jeweller tasks. Since we are specialists of shape designed jewellery, and people identify us about our own style, we uses 3shaper almost every day.

3Design: According to you, what would be the next technology expectations for jewelers ?

Daniel Nagy – Splendor
The world is heading to mass production, and many making. Companies would claim thinner, cheaper results, to sell with more profit. We are different kind of people. We believe in personalized, customized, long life valuables. We don’t see, what would be the next revolutionary technological step, but we think that visual world turns to be more and more visual, so everything which gives deeper visual impact, might offer a louder success. Furthermore we think that 3d printing will be very common soon. Just like telecommunication. A two years old child is also using smartphones. I think the next step would be 3d printing, in each and every field of life. House building, food making, e-learning, transporter vehicle creation, and many more.

3Design: What does 3Design bring to your daily life as a jeweller?

Daniel Nagy – Splendor
This is the most important tool we use. Of course there is a fully traditional well equipped workshop, which can offer everything, and we could survive without 3design, but 3shaper is the perfect tool for our our special way of working.

A last word to thank you infinitely for sharing with us your beautiful story and your loyalty to 3Design for so many years.
Some of you may have noticed that many of Splendor’s achievements adorn our website. It is certain that we will never have the talent of our customers. Their trust in transmitting their images and creations to prove the potential of our 3D Software is for us the most beautiful reward! 

]]> Taiwan, a Gemstone in South Pacific Ocean https://3design.com/en/travel-diary-taiwan-gemstone-south-pacific-ocean/ https://3design.com/en/travel-diary-taiwan-gemstone-south-pacific-ocean/#respond Thu, 15 Feb 2018 14:47:51 +0000 http://3design.com/?p=1789

Taiwan, a Gemstone in South Pacific Ocean

Taiwan: a strong community of professional jewelers

Chinese people seem to enjoy buying or collecting fine jewelry more than the Western people, who prefer to spend money on vacations rather than buying luxury items like jewelry

said Julia Perng, a professional jeweler and executive secretary at the strongest jewelry design association in China and Taiwan.

This could be the main reason of jewelry business steady development in Taiwan and China.

Another reason could be the strong community of jewelers. Indeed, even if most of the businesses are independent (2-3 people), most of the professionals’ jewelers are members of an association (for both designing and gold handcrafts) which is very unusual in other markets.

Our 3DESIGN team had the opportunity to meet several professional jewelers end of 2016 and we desired to share this rich experience

Let’s start with few words about the island:

Taiwan mapTaiwan is located in east Asia some 180 kilometers (112 miles) off the southeastern coast of mainland China. It was founded as a distinct and original nation in 1949.

The total area of the island is 36.000 km2 (13,974 sq mi), making it intermediate in size between Belgium and the Netherlands with a population of over 23 million (11,4 Million in Belgium)

Despite its diplomatic isolation, Taiwan has become one of Asia’s big traders, becoming one of the world’s top producers of computer technology.

“Compared to other industries, Taiwan’s jewelry market is very traditional and conservative. 20 years ago, this market reached its peak. Since 2008, the Taiwanese market had to face the turmoil the local market brought, while the occidental market was attracted by China, making the Taiwanese jewelry market nearly invisible.”

says Rachel Chen, former editor-in-chief of Jewelry Information magazine and editor of the 3D CAD artwork book «Create your 3D jewelry fantasy world».

This previously unseen crisis forced companies to reorganize themselves to stay strong and maintain a position on the market.

Since then, 3D technologies’ use has reached a peak…

“Half a dozen of years ago, most jewelers and designers didn’t believe in 3D technologies and didn’t use CAD.
High jewelry clients also have many misgivings that still need to be removed. Jewelry was, back then, «I believe only what I see», and if you didn’t show the stones, or an authenticity certificate, we couldn’t gain the client’s trust.”

continues Rachel Chen.

Thanks to 3D printing evolution, it became very popular to hear about it in discussion topics in Taiwan, and benefitted from a huge newsworthy exposition in 2014.

This allowed a global increase for both CAD and jewelry markets.

Click here to see Rachel Chen full interview

With more than 2000 jewelers officially registered mainly defined as small businesses, jewelry market is very active with 4 strong associations for both labors and managers, 3 annual main exhibitions and several education and training centers that give jewelry courses from hand carving to 3D technologies.

3Design team had the chance to meet some of the main actors of the jewelry business in Taiwan.

 

 

taiwan

Taiwan has dynamic Jewelry associations:

TCJDA

TCJDA is located in Taipei. Miss Wang Yue Yan (nickname “yoyo”) is the general manager of the association, and collaborates with other Chinese’s associations every year to organize, among other things, a design competition opened to every jeweler in Taiwan and China, including its own 108 members.

The competition occurs during February and May, and the awards ceremony takes place at September Jewelry fair in Taipei. At the end of the ceremony, the winners get to share a 10.000$!!

Competition is composed of 3 categories: Handmade jewelry // 2D hand design // 3D design.

In 2015, about 400 people attended the contest!

More info about the association and for competition subscription, visit www.yyw.com.tw !

And our blog post about the 2017 winners

Click here to see Julia Perng full interview

with the president of the association and team

Emilie Balsamo with the President of the association and team

 Mrs Julia Perng, the chairman of the company, her husband Wu (technical and engineering + website)
Mrs Julia Perng, the chairman of the company, her husband Wu (technical and engineering + website)

Aibususo:

Mrs Julia Perng, the chairman of the company, her husband Wu (technical and engineering + website), some editors and designers have a daily activity at Aibususo in collecting and classifying jewelry designs from all around the world, in order to help other artists in getting inspired. (They provide a wide library on different topics/themes. Research can be done by brand, material, topic… about 300 000 items). The editors are specialized in editing jewelry technical news on brands, design, tendencies…

And last but not least, Aibususo is specialized in providing jewelry design courses, both hand-drawing and 3D.

aibususo - learn to use 3Design at Taiwan
Teacher Mrs TinTin Hsie (below) provides regularly the professionals with basic, intermediate or advance 3D course (40 hours).
aibususo - learn to use 3Design at Taiwan 2

THJO

*In Taichung, THJO Association provides market information to its 2000 members, training courses such as 3D hands-on and full design trainings.

Design courses help jewelers/designers to start working with 3D technologies. A personal software license is lent afterwards to any participant, for a limited period. The training lasts 3 months, /40 hours

More info about the association and for training subscription, visit www.tcssioiu.org.tw

Hand sketches from the association members. courses given by Mrs Julia Perng

Hand sketches from the association members. Courses given by Mrs Julia Perng

 Mrs Julia Perng (Aibususo), Miss Wang Yue Yan (TCJDA general manager), Emilie Balsamo (Gravotech), Cary Chao (QingTeng).
Mrs Julia Perng (Aibususo), Miss Wang Yue Yan (TCJDA general manager), Emilie Balsamo (Gravotech), Cary Chao (QingTeng).

and efficient Education and Training centers:

Into both education (students) and industries (professionals), people gradually know the importance of CAD and appreciate to get trained in a certified training center. Here are a few of them.

CTC or “Workforce Development Agency”

CTC or “Workforce Development Agency” is a governmental organization that offers hundreds different types of training to the Taiwanese in different locations and various sectors of activities including Jewelry from hand carving, wax, drawing to CAD.

The Government covers 80% of the cost of each training, which last an average of 3 months each. A national test is scheduled at the end of the training.

jewelry class in Taiwan

A Jewelry class

A group of 23 people who just start a 3DESIGN training.

3D professor Mrs Jinger – Emilie Balsamo from 3Design – Director Mrs Uwshowa – Cary Chao company QingTeng

DAHAN – institute of Jewelry Technology

Dahan is a private institute based in Hualien (east coast) that offers partnership with at least 7 Chinese schools to receive their students for a year. Scholarship programs in China basically last 3 year : 1st year in China – 2nd year in Taiwan (especially for design learning, incl training 3D class especially on 3DESIGN) – 3rd year in China for practice at professional’ site.

M.Chai Yin Lai, Dahan’s CEAO has developed a partnership with at least 7 schools in China:

Quanzhou Huaguang University –Zhangzhou College of Science and Technology –Liming Vocational University –Yunnan University of Business Management –Gansu Industry polytechnic College –Xiamen institute of software technologies

Trip to Asia. 3DESIGN entertainment with students at Quanzhou Huaguang College. December 2017
The college was set up in 1992. In 2016, it has 4000 students and especially 130 in the Jewelry section from 18 to 22 years old.
chinese government jewelry school
Meeting with a government school in China. Director and masters. There are more than 120 19/21 years-old students in the jewelry section.

Conclusion:

Taiwan is a real gem in the Pacific Ocean! Even if the Jewelry business has seemed to be slowing down during the previous year, it is significantly established both on the island and abroad on mainland territory. Composed of a hard worker and a qualified community of jewelers, Taiwanese jewellery market is very alive and has great years in perspective.

3D technologies with CAD and 3D printers is settled among professional jewelers and in most of the education and training centers even though the acquisition cost is not that cheap.

3Design software solution has been translated into Taiwanese 10 years ago for its roughly 500 Taiwanese users !

Would you like to share your experience ?

Feel free!

]]> https://3design.com/en/travel-diary-taiwan-gemstone-south-pacific-ocean/feed/ 0 An Expert in 3D Jewelry at Taipei https://3design.com/en/rachel-chen-interview-3d-jewelry-expert-taiwan/ https://3design.com/en/rachel-chen-interview-3d-jewelry-expert-taiwan/#respond Mon, 06 Nov 2017 16:14:18 +0000 http://3design.com/?p=2067

An Expert in 3D Jewelry at Taipei

From communication and marketing agencies to the jewellery universe, here are some advices from an active and strong Taiwanese Business woman

1) Tell me a bit more about you and your background please. (studies, professional experience…)

陳佩宣Rachel-ChenRachel Chen :

I worked 7 years in a prestigious advertisement agency with the biggest consumer brands, to then obtain a Brand Manager assistant position for a cosmetic company.
The brand’s decision to enter Taiwan’s jewellery market was a great opportunity for me to conduct many market analysis and hence know every detail the industry had. I seized the opportunity to become a jeweller: learning first to draw, conceive and then make lost-wax castings. Step by step, I mastered the jewel conception process.
By mixing these new skills with my communication and marketing experience, I was able to comprehend the jewellery market on the business and technical scale. This expertise allows me today to develop my agency « 3DESIGN Concept Studio » : a studio combining Artistic gallery and training room.

Taipei Jewelers’ Association course

 

2) What kind of trainings do you provide jewelers with: Only CAD or any other skills as well? (maybe more manual)

Rachel Chen :
Nowadays, I focus mostly on 3DESIGN trainings, but during my courses, I also include prototyping and the applications of 3D in marketing.
In order to help my students imporve, I organised visits to foundries and production workshops during the training, to help them increase their project and production experience.

 

3) Do you work with any Taiwanese schools or associations?

3DESIGN Concept StudioRachel Chen :
The answer is «YES» ! I have a close relationship with associations and training centers from Taiwan’s jewellery industry.
I also created 6 new 3DESIGN training centers:
– Taipei Jewelers’ Association;
– Northern Training Center, Bureau of Employment and Vocational Training;
– Junous Jewelry Education Center;
– New Taipei City Jewelers Commercial Association;
– Taipei Jewelry workshop union;
– Chinese Gem Identification Education Cente.
Meanwhile, I hope I will be able to find the way to cooperate with universities who are more and more interested in 3D Jewellery Design.

I wish to create an alliance between Universities and Industries to help future jewel designers enter the market, ready to work and create the future of the jewellery industry.

I have also been editor in chief of the jewellery information magazine in 2014. But now, and so on, I keep an editor-consultant role to treat about 3D CAD/CAM relative information.

 

 

 

 

 

4) Could you please tell me more about your 3D CAD artwork book project? Are the pictures below part of the students’ artworks?
Rachel Chen – 3Design tool books

Create your 3D jewelry fantasy worldRachel Chen :
I wrote and published in 2011 «Create your 3D jewelry fantasy world» and «3DESIGN V7 software for beginner’s: 9 lessons self-study guide» in traditionnal chinese.
Originally, most of softwares for 3D jewellery design had interfaces in English. Chinese versions, lacked precision, clear terms, while no technical book existed. Making the 3D jewellery design learning process very hard.
This is how these books were born.

After teaching 3DESIGN for 5 years, so on average 20 to 30 sessions, I trained more than 200 students !

For next year, after discussing with old students, we decided to cooperate in order to gather and publish a book collection about designing jewels in 3D.

I will make a selection of 20 designers to realise these artistic collections. Some of these designers joined us during the Teacher/student exposition held by th e Ministry of Huashan Culture. Ideally, I would like other foreign 3DESIGN designers to join the project.

 

 

 

5) You have been certificated as an Advanced level user by our 3DESIGN expert team, congratulations! How many years of experience do you have in 3DESIGN?

2014-TYPE3-Asia-Technical-Seminar-1Rachel Chen :
I recieved the Advanced Level Instructor Certification in 2014 during the Asian technical seminar in Shenzhen.
I know about the 3DESIGN software since 2006 and have been using it for more than 7 years now.
To chose the right software, I conducted many researches on various 3D CAD softwares such as 3DS Max, Rhino, Jewelry CAD, ZBrush and Matrix. During the research, I baught many user guides and tried to learn by my self how to use them.

The reasons behind my choice of 3DESIGN CAD as my final jewellery software is because it was my favorite one to use…

  1. Compared to other 3D softwares, 3DESIGN is really dedicated to jewellery. This includes drawing, jewel production, rendering functions… and more jewellery tools.
  2. The designing and modelling functions are based on true jeweller processes and concepts, which allows to any real jeweller to start and begin in the 3D jewellery universe.
  3. The interface is pleasant, fresh, and feels human. It leaves to the user the choice to adapt and ajust it to it’s working environment. The icons are really visual and representational, which makes the software easily understood.
  4. From drawings in 2D to 3D renderings, or even with 3SHAPER for organic modelling, everything helps you to design freely. Compared to other «plug-in» type softwares, it is really an «all-in-one» software.
  5. A rich library of stones and materials, with stone report functionnalities, pave creation, and other specific stone functions allowing designers to focus on their creative work rather than learning the abstract 3D language.
  6. The parametric construction tree allows the designer to instantly modify and review his creation to meet the client’s needs. With this, the designer can create in a freer and more effective way.
  7. The number of rendering models ease up the creation of presentation models. The high level of rendering helps to convince clients and can be used with communication and marketing.

 

6) According to you, how would you describe Taiwan jewelry market? And the profile of Taiwanese jewelers?

Rachel Chen :
Compared to other industries, Taiwan’s jewellery market is very traditionnal and conservative, even close minded.
20 years ago, this market reached its peak.
Since 2008, the Taiwanese market had to face the turmoil the local market braught, while the occidental market was attracted by China, making the Taiwanese jewellery market nearly invisible.

This never seen crisis forced companies to reorganise themselves to stay strong and maintain a position on the market.

Because jewellery isn’t basic necessity, thousands of Taiwanese detail stores along with traditionnal companies faced the pressure from the international recession, the stock market fall, inflation and buying power decrease.

 

7) What do Taiwanese jewelers mostly think about CAD, about 3DESIGN?

Rachel Chen :
I held my first 3DESIGN course in 2010. At that time, most jewellers and designers didn’t believe in and didn’t use CAD. High jewellery clients also have many misgivings that need to be removed. Jewellery was, back then, «I believe only what I see», and if you didn’t show the stones, or a authenticity certificate, we couldn’t gain the client’s trust.

Thanks to the evolution of 3D printing, it became very popular to hear about it in discussion topics in Taiwan, and benefitted from a huge newsworthy exposition in 2014.

This allowed a global increase for the CAD market.

3DESIGN will become the n°1 choice and the only possible option in the user’s mind.

When people will talk about 3D jewellery designing softwares, they will collectively talk about 3DESIGN as being the best possible investment.

Follow 3Design Concept Studio and participate to their 3Design courses

Here!

]]> https://3design.com/en/rachel-chen-interview-3d-jewelry-expert-taiwan/feed/ 0 Aibususo.com, 3D jewelry design activities in Taiwan https://3design.com/en/aibususo-3d-jewelry-design-activities-in-taiwan/ https://3design.com/en/aibususo-3d-jewelry-design-activities-in-taiwan/#respond Mon, 06 Nov 2017 14:26:40 +0000 http://3design.com/?p=2186

Aibususo.com, 3D jewelry design activities in Taiwan

Julia Cheng - aibususo.com

Julia Cheng – aibususo.com

Julia Cheng has an atypical profile! Rich of jewelry design knowledges, she offers hand drawing courses at the prestigious design association of TCJDA; She also provides Taiwanese jewelers with an online up-to-date wide library of designs from all over the world on different topics/themes via her own company AIBUSUSO and she also regularly publishes some art reports to be shared with her 9000 followers! She looks passionate about her job and we’re delighted to ask her for an interview.

 

 

aibususo.com

Please tell me more about your daily work at AIBUSUSO and TCJDA

At Aibussuso:

  • A) Fresh global news every morning
    Personally, I think social medias will play an important role for marketing and sales in the near future, thus, Aibususo has set up a new media for jewelry industry. My daily work consists in reading news in the morning, mass reading not only jewelry related but also global economic news.
  • B) Meeting with Aibusuo editors
    To discuss and share about our Facebook and Weibo’s fans’ feedbacks
    To decide all together the headline of the next market report.

Aibususo usually releases a weekly market report on various topics including designer introduction, trends, new technologies, etc, this report is sent by email to approximatively 5,000 subscribers. 90% of them are Art related.

  • C) A “news media department” is about to be created on June 2017.
  • D) Design creations and my shop Business activity

 

At TCJDA association,
I am the executive secretary of the association. I hold or participate to all above related meetings with president Miss Wang. An average of 5-10 meetings per month.

With over 100 members, TCJDA is the biggest and most important jewelry design association in China and Taiwan. The association carries out the following functions:

  • to provide members with relevant market information
  • to connect business between Taiwan and overseas
  • to offer training courses for members, such as hand craft, 3D design, seminars of art…
  • to organize competitions, contests, events…

National competition for goldsmith jewelers
– more info on www.dljjewelry.com and https://goo.gl/5cGxnQ

 

How would you describe the jewelry market in Taiwan? and what are its own specificities?

Business in Taiwan market has been weak since the 2nd semester of 2016 and I am afraid this situation will last on beginning 2017.

The biggest advantage of Taiwan is that there is a strong community of professional members including both designers and gold handcraft that all stand together, this is very unusual in other markets. Most of them are independent designers (means a designer with 2-3 assistants) or small-to-middle scale factories (with employees about 20-50).

Another specificity is that Chinese people prefer to buy or collect fine jewelries and any luxury products whereas western people seem to prefer spending their money on holidays!
With such culture specificities, plus a qualified and professional manpower and a (soon, we hope) global economic situation recovery, jewelry business in Taiwan market should quickly grow up and become one of the most important on the island.

Any idea, how many jewelry businesses are in Taiwan?

They are about 2000 jewelers officially registered in Taiwan (shops, companies and factories).

How do you see the use of CAD software? And what do Taiwanese jewelers mostly think about CAD? What do they use?

In Taiwan jewelry industry, people gradually knew the importance of CAD.

So far most of jewelry CAD users were used to work on Rhino because of cost. Besides that, Rhino started promotion in Taiwan much earlier than other 3D software brands, there were also aggressive in campus thus most students or young designers were used to know it. No doubt the cost & performance ratio is a key concern when people decide which brand to learn or buy.

Year after year, Art students in colleges and universities has begun to discover 3DESIGN. In 2014, Dahan college, under Aibususo strong recommendation, started to offer 3DESIGN courses and spread its training scheme in other universities.

Education courses are the best way to let potential users understand the advantage and features of a strong software like 3Design. Only users know “what they will get” and so invest in it.

We thank Julia you for your time, we appreciate. You have been using 3DESIGN for 3 years, providing courses to professional jewelers. We invite the Taiwanese community to discover your service and and fresh news on www.facebook.com/aibususo .

Discover more about Aibususo

aibususo.com

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